The Dog Dude Text Call

Behaviour help · Resource guarding

Dog resource guarding training in Toronto

Stiffening over the food bowl, freezing over a bone, growling when you come near the couch — or near one particular person.

Resource guarding is not a greedy dog. Nearly always it is fear, or a lack of respect: a dog that does not trust anyone else to make the call, so it makes the call itself.

Mark talking an owner through her dog's guarding in a Toronto park, the dog calm at their feet

Is this your dog?

Freezes, stiffens, or shows the whites of its eyes over food

Growls or snaps when you reach for a toy, a bone, or the couch

Guards one person in the house from everyone else in it

You have started tiptoeing around your own dog

Be straight with Mark about the growls, the near misses and anything that has already happened. He has heard worse, and he cannot help with half the story.

What it looks like

Three kinds of guarding

Food and the bowl

The bowl, the bin, whatever fell on the kitchen floor. Often the first place it shows, and the easiest one to see coming. With food it is usually fear.

Objects and places

A bone, a stolen sock, the sofa, the bed, the top of the stairs. Bones and treats are mostly a respect problem: the item is a prize, and everyone gets warned off it until it is gone. Some dogs will guard a thing for hours, not because they want it but because they refuse to lose it.

Guarding a person

One human becomes the resource — a partner, a child, whoever does the feeding. Everybody else in the house gets warned off.

What Mark does

Respect first, then the bowl

Most guarding is fear or a lack of respect. Now and then it is neurotic, which is still fear underneath: a dog that is not sure who is in charge picks an item, wins the stand-off over it, and feels level with you again. Mark reads which one he is looking at in the first session, because the fix is not the same.

Guarding is not really a food problem, so Mark does not start at the bowl. He starts on the walk, because that is where a dog works out who is making the choices. A dog that has followed you calmly for an hour comes home a different animal to the one that dragged you there.

Once your dog is looking to you outside, the same quiet disagreement works inside — in the kitchen, at the couch, in the hallway. It is never harsh, never to hurt and never to intimidate. It is a signal your dog already understands, much closer to what one calm dog does to another than to anything a human would think up.

Timing is most of it. Mark works with the stiffening and the freeze — the three out of ten — rather than the snap at eight. At three your dog can still hear you and still learn something. At eight nobody is learning anything.

Food is the wrong tool here for the same reason. A dog that is guarding cannot think about the treat in your hand, and trading up teaches some dogs to guard harder for a better offer.

Bring a slip lead to the first session. Mark will show you how to fit it and how to hold it — the technique is most of the result, and it is the part that keeps working after he goes home.

Bring a slip lead — what Mark uses
A slip lead sitting high on a dog's neck, held loose

Honest expectations

No miracle promises

The first session decides the plan — nobody is sold ten sessions on a phone call. Most dogs genuinely need one to three sessions. If the dog guards around children, or has already bitten, Mark puts safety first and makes no promises he cannot keep. After the first session he will tell you straight what it will take.

Start with the free call

Twenty minutes, no pressure. Tell Mark what is going on; he will tell you honestly whether he can help.

Text Mark Call Book